Replacing the bearing in the washing machine: how to change the bearing yourself and not make mistakes
When the bearing junk the washing machine, measures should be taken immediately. Continued use of the unit with such a breakdown invariably ends with lethal damage to it.
The timely detection of a malfunction and the manual replacement of a bearing in a washing machine will cost incomparably cheaper than payment for the services of a master or the purchase of a new device.
Signs of a broken bearing assembly
Breakdowns depend on various factors, including the quality of equipment assembly and its age. Troubles can happen for the following reasons:
- due to a worn gland, the bearing assembly destroys moisture;
- violated the rules of installation of the washing machine;
- regular tank overload.
Possible and such trouble as initially poor quality of the bearings themselves.
Often learn about the damage is even a rumor. About the appeared malfunction of the bearing unit eloquently signal signs:
- the drum after turning on the washing program does not spin, although the motor is running;
- the drum rotates, but produces an atypical grinding noise, and sometimes a crash, the washing machine vibrates significantly;
- washed laundry is not wrung out.
Having decided to cope with such a hindrance on our own, it is necessary to clearly understand that this is a very laborious process relating to a major overhaul, in which virtually the entire washing machine is subject to disassembly.
When the final decision on self-repair is made, in order not to aggravate the situation, it is necessary to stop operating the faulty mechanism and start preparing for the repair.
What tools are needed?
First of all, before serious work you need to take care in advance of the spare parts and tools that will be needed during the repair.
Set of tools:
- rozhkovy keys of various diameters;
- a hammer;
- metal rod with a pencil diameter or a blunt chisel;
- Phillips and slotted screwdrivers.
You will need silicone sealant and lubricant designed for bearings that are placed in washing machines, not afraid of water.
From spare parts you need to purchase the gland and 2 bearings. The parts are non-standardized, but in stores by the brand the device will pick up what you need.
You can also disassemble the machine and remove the old parts, by numbers on them to find and write out the necessary parts on the Internet.
You should not save: the service life of the washing machine is in direct proportion to the quality of parts. Ultimately, cheap counterparts will cost more branded parts.
Stages of disassembly of the washing machine
First of all, the washer should be disconnected from the communications that supply it with water and electricity, providing a drain. To get to the broken bearing, you have to remove the tank, and to do this, actually dismantle the entire machine.
It would not be superfluous to have a camera or cell phone with a similar function to fix all the disassembly steps.
When building such forethought can be invaluable help, because a 100 percent rely on memory is more than risky. In extreme cases, the entire process needs to be recorded, especially the order of the wires.
Step # 1 - Remove the cover and dashboard
First the cover is removed. To do this, unscrewing the 2 screws on the back wall, lift it up, sliding it slightly backwards.
The next task is to remove the tray for washing powder. He will leave the grooves fairly freely if, by pushing and pressing the special latch, pull it towards himself.
In models not equipped with such a button, the powder receptacle can be pulled out by gently pushing it down.
Before you remove the upper dashboard, you need to determine where the bolts securing it are located. The location and the number of them, depending on the model, may be different, but in the place from which the powder tray was taken out, part of the screws is exactly.
Another one is always placed on the right side of the washing device. If after unscrewing the panel does not want to be removed, you need to continue the search for the missing mounts.
Before disconnecting a whole bunch of wires going to the control board, they are always photographed - this will be of great help when reattached.
Next you need to remove the bottom panel: after pressing the flat screwdriver on the retaining clips holding it, it is easily released.
Step # 2 - release the hatch, remove the front wall
The next step will be the release of the cuff, that is, the rubber gasket, one side worn on the tank and the other on the front panel of the washing machine. It is fixed by a spring and a collar.
It was the turn to dismantle the front wall. To do this, with the hatch locked, remove the bolts holding the panel and carefully remove it from the hook, remembering the wire connecting the panel and the hatch lock.
As soon as possible, the wire should be disconnected.Obstacles to remove the wall, no more.
Step # 3 - remove the heater, wiring and tank
First of all, the inner top panel is removed, for which, in the back part of the device, screws that secure the water supply valve are found and removed. After that, begin to twist the bolts on the panel.
But you shouldn’t hurry to take it off right away - before this action should be disconnected, not forgetting to shoot on the camera, wires and connections.
This is followed by the dismantling of the drain pipe, articulated with the tank through the clamp. The clamp is unscrewed, the pipe is removed. It is not superfluous to have a rag on hand, as the remaining water can flow out of the nozzle.
The heating element must also be removed. To do this, disconnect the wires that are suitable for the heater.
In different models, the arrangement of heating elements is possible both in the front and in the back of the automatic washing machine, so you need to be ready for dismantling and the back wall.
At this stage, the wiring is dismantled completely. It must be borne in mind that sometimes to different parts of the unit it is attached to different types of fasteners.For example, it can be attached to a tank with ties or wire.
Next, remove the wires from the engine. You can also disconnect the wiring from the pump and put it outside so that it does not create unnecessary interference when it comes time to remove the tank.
To make it easier to remove the tank, remove the counterweights - the lower and upper. Depending on the model, they can be found both in the front of the case and in the back.
With the help of a wrench bolts are removed, fixing the shock absorbers and the water level sensor in the desired position.
After removing the belt and disconnecting the engine and shock absorbers, the work on removing the tank from the bowels of the car is approaching the final. The tank was left hanging only on the springs, it weighs a little, so you will not need much effort.
For convenience in the upcoming disassembly, the released tank is usually placed on a strong table with a pulley up.
Step # 4 - disassemble the dismantled structure
In order to not accidentally damage the rubber cuff during operation, it is preferable to remove it, not forgetting to mark the correct location with a marker.
The tank is usually made of 2 parts fastened together. Fasteners, depending on the brand of the machine, can serve as special latches or bolts. These halves need to be separated. There are, however, solid tanks that need to be cut.
In traditional cases, after the front part of the tank has been removed, you can see a drum on the back half of it, which can already be removed without difficulty.
Step # 5 - we open a solid cast tank
In some models, especially the brands Ariston and Indesit, there are not collapsible, but solid cast polycarbonate tanks.
In such cases, to get to the faulty bearings, the tank will have to be cut with a regular hacksaw.
To make the thickness of the cut as small as possible, the saw blade is tapped with a hammer to minimize the setting of the teeth.
The cut halves are coated with a sealant and twisted with screws by pre-applied marks.
Phased replacement of worn bearings
The matter is gradually moving towards completion, and soon it will be possible to get rid of defective bearings, but there will be several more anticipatory actions.
Stage # 1 - preparatory work
Now you need to carefully detach the drum from the back of the tank - a responsible operation that requires increased attention.
First you need to get rid of fasteners holding the pulley. The tank is turned over with a pulley upwards, the bolt securing it to the shaft is disconnected. When the pulley is removed from the axle, the loosened bolt is put back into place to avoid damage to the shaft when the drum is knocked out.
The shaft is removed gradually by gently tapping the hammer. Some experts advise inexperienced craftsmen to use a rubber mallet in this case, so as not to flare up the bearing seat due to carelessness.
If the shaft is slowly supplied, the work is patiently continued. With a negative result, before you increase the effort, the standard bolt should be replaced with one that is not a pity to throw in the case of deformation.
When the position of the shaft is equal to the head of the bolt, the latter is twisted, the drum is removed to the outside.
You must carefully inspect the shaft and sleeve for their integrity. To test, you can put a new bearing on the shaft in order to accurately verify that there is no backlash. If defects are found, the shaft with the crosspiece will have to be replaced.
On the sleeve located on the shaft, there should also be no defects from the development and mechanical damage.
The pronounced lateral grooves eloquently say that the gland on such a sleeve will not be able to protect the bearing from moisture, and, therefore, repeated repair is inevitable.
Before removing the bearings, you must remove the oil seal. Elementary operation: pick up with a flat screwdriver and remove. If it does not work out right away, you will have to soak it with a penetrating lubricant.
There will be no trouble, if the epiploon is torn, all the same it is subject to replacement.
Stage # 2 - Removing a damaged part
The tank is placed on wooden bars, and comes the turn of work with a metal rod or a blunt chisel. Putting the pin to the worn bearing, hit the part with a hammer.
Subsequent blows are applied in a circle until the part is knocked out. During operation, care must be taken that the bearing does not twist. First remove the outer bearing.
In the same way get rid of the second bearing. Beats should be neat and light. And yet this procedure is quite noisy, so the neighbors will be grateful to the home craftsman, if he finds an opportunity to make it outside the house.
Landing sites using a descaling agent and soft cloth should be thoroughly cleaned to a shine, cleaned of dirt to prevent clogging of new parts.
Stage # 3 - installation of new bearings
Now nothing prevents to install serviceable bearings. Initially, this is done with the fact that it is smaller.
A metal rod will help here: it is alternately applied to the bearing from opposite sides and guided by a careful blow of the hammer to the right place.
The fact that the detail is placed correctly will be reported by the sound: it will become much louder. In the same way, the larger bearing is also changing.
It remains to establish a new gland. First of all, it should be treated with a lubricant designed specifically for washing machines. Only after that it can be placed in the proper place.
When this is not, some recommend Litol-24, which can be bought at any auto shop. But responsible masters do not strongly advise to do this. He does not have great water resistance, and it is clear to everyone that the bearings carry moisture.
Stage # 4 - reassemble the structure
The lubricated shaft of the tank is installed at the same address - in the back cover. Before you connect the halves of the tank, it is recommended to replace the sealing rubber with a new one. In extreme cases, fill the groove in a circle along with the gasket with a layer of sealant.
It remains to collect the car. Do this by observing the reverse order for disassembly. And here the invaluable service to the home master will be provided by the photographs that he took when he disassembled the unit.
The more of them, the less likelihood that “extra” parts will remain near the assembled washer.
Peculiarities of repair with vertical loading
Here the drum has a support for 2 axle shafts and 2 bearings. With such a reliable design, they break down infrequently, usually when there is still some kind of breakdown.
Often they are spoiled by water penetrating through a faulty gland. Rusting, steadily clogged with dirt, the bearing eventually fails.
Repairing such machines is much more convenient. When communications are turned off, 2 side covers of the case are removed, and access to the work front is provided.
The first to replace the bearing from the side where there is no drive pulley. To do this, remove the caliper - already ready set of bearings and gland enclosed in the housing.
The site of the gland, as well as the shaft itself, is freed from contamination. Installing a new bearing, you must avoid misalignment of the sealing ring.
Otherwise, it will not be able to prevent the flow of fluid, which will cause a new bearing failure.
Change the caliper from the motor start with the removal of the belt and pulley drum. Then comes the turn of the grounding pad. Following unscrew the caliper. The shaft and the landing nest, as in the first case, are thoroughly cleaned.
A working gland is installed in the place put to it, the caliper is tightened. Great effort is not worth it, because the thread is made on plastic. Assembly, as usual, is carried out in reverse order.
Conclusions and useful video on the topic
A visual representation of the intricacies of restoring household washing machines can be obtained from video films, where masters share their knowledge and experience.
How to independently replace the bearing in a non-separable tank:
How to change bearings in a car with a vertical load:
How to knock out the bearing ring:
After the repair operations, the washing machine works again. This can not but rejoice, because a lot of money has been saved: as a rule, for professionals, the cost of eliminating such a malfunction is close to a third of the price of a new unit.
A home craftsman, who has learned in practice how to change a worn bearing on a washing machine, after such a baptism of fire, new prospects for successful home appliance repair are opening up.