How to hide a radiatorJune 12, 2009
Some radiators work more efficiently with an open front surface, but for others it is recommended to equip a wooden or metal screen. We will talk about three ways to design radiators. We think at least one of them will suit you.
Top panel for modern radiators.
Such a beautiful solution using solid wooden boards does not hide the radiator, but turns it into a practical bench.
It may be difficult to precisely glue and tie together the two parts. The slightest irregularities will be immediately noticeable. Therefore, the average support on both sides by 1 cm is already a bench, that is, the difference between the width of one and the other parts is 2 cm. The side supports are offset 3 cm inwards from the edges of the board.
We use a vertically glued wooden board 40 mm thick. It is sawn in accordance with the width of the upper surface of the radiator. Carefully handle the front surface of the board: turn the board face down and cut with a circular saw from the back.
- Before measuring the height of the supports, check whether the floor is level.
If uneven, use a level and pieces of pressboard. Add the thickness of the pressboard to the height of the bench to set it strictly horizontally.
- Saw a plank. Clamp the clamp guide or board, which will be used as a parallel stop. The board must be wide enough so that there is a gap between the supports and the radiator.
The length of our bench is 260 cm, in the middle it needs support, without which the board will sag if an adult sits on it.
If the radiator is installed at some distance from the wall, then the support must be made both in front and behind. If the radiator is installed close to the wall or, like ours, under the window, then there is no space for the rear support, and you will have to find support points on the wall or window frame, fasten metal corners there and fix the bench on them.
- On the bottom surface of the board, mark the places for the three dowels.
Two outer shkanta should be located at a distance of 5 cm from each edge. The support should retreat 1 cm from the edge inwards.
- Use the marker pens to transfer the location of the dowels from the board to the supports.Drill holes in the board with a diameter of 25 mm. Use a depth stop. The holes must be 60 mm deep.
- Attach to the board support. It will be easier to insert dowels of supports if you slightly drown holes in advance from the bottom side of the board. Shkant first glue in support. Do not forget to put some glue into the holes in the board.
- Install the middle support. If the radiators are located at some distance from the wall, then the middle support should be placed both in front and behind. If there is no space behind the support, the board is fixed to the wall with the help of fittings.
- Aluminum foil is glued to the bottom surface of the board. Glue is applied with "sausages" and spread with a spatula. Then stick the foil. Remnants of glue are removed with a wet rag. The foil will protect the board from overheating and deformation.
Important:Handle the board carefully. When you saw the board along the support in the longitudinal direction, always put a barrier on the used part of the board.
- ash-tree vertically glued billet 40 mm thick, 63 cm wide and 3 meters long,
- thick aluminum foil
- wooden dowels with a diameter of 10 mm,
- joiner's glue (if necessary and assembly glue),
- metal corners.
- barcode markers.
Screen for electric radiators
At maximum mode, the electric radiator can get very hot. Install the screen so as not to burn yourself.
Electric radiators get very hot, so we make a screen out of heat-resistant material. We choose fiberboard, which, according to the manufacturer, can withstand temperatures up to 80 ° C (i.e. it will not catch fire at a lower temperature).
The distance between the radiator and the top panel should be at least 10 cm, and in the panel itself you must leave several holes for air circulation. This means that it is forbidden to place indoor plants and other objects on this surface.
For air circulation in the front panel we drill holes in five rows.
- From fiberboard we saw out the front panel and glue the slats. All
we glue the slats, except for the top, flush with the edge of the hardboard, and the top one is 12 mm higher. The ends of the racks saw off at an angle of 45 °.
- Mark the places for drilling. We advise you to use a power drill that operates from the network.
- We glue and fasten the sides with screws 3.5 x 45 mm in size.But first, on the back side of the front panel, glue a support strip 4 cm wide.
- The top panel consists of several thin strips of fiberboard glued together. We use three long slats, between the ends of which and in the middle we insert intermediate bars.
- A piece of fiberboard glued in the middle of the inner surface of the panel to strengthen it. It is necessary that this piece retreat inward from the front edge to the thickness of the panel.
- Slightly decode and install the top panel. File and sandpaper grind and the edges of the ventilation holes. You can use the router. Then the top panel is glued and screwed.
- Turn the screen and mark the place of attachment. A metal corner is attached at each end so that it is flush with the back surface. Mark and drill holes for the corners.
- Measure and mark the place of fastening of metal corners on the wall. Before screwing the corners, check the level of their placement. Prime, paint and attach the screen.
- MDF 12 mm thick
- pine slats for frame size 9 x 43 mm,
- screws 3,5 x 45 mm (and 2 long screws for mounting),
- wood glue,
- nail (for marking),
- small metal corners,
- crown drill with a diameter of 50 mm.
Screen for old radiators
Make a beautiful radiator screen from the finished decorative panel. This is a proven solution.
We decided to hide outdated radiators behind a decorative panel with a beautiful pattern. Even if there are many holes in the panel, air must circulate above and below the screen. Therefore, it is necessary to leave a gap of 5-7 cm above the floor. And the gap between the window sill and the screen should be 2-3 cm.
The panel is installed in a frame of pine slats, and it is enough just to screw. It will become somewhat more graceful if you groove a groove along the internal contour. But it is a matter of taste.
- The thermostat sensor should be outside the screen at a short distance from it. Otherwise the thermostat will not be able to regulate the temperature. It can be pushed through the bottom slot.
- Remove the exact dimensions for the future panel. We must leave a gap of 5 cm below, 3 cm above and 1 cm on each side. Consequently, the size of our frame is 72 x 147 cm.
Irrespective of the board chosen by you it is necessary to degrease. This can be done with gasoline, thinner or the like. Do this work outdoors. We purchased a panel that was treated with oil from rust, so it took quite a long time to degrease.
The pattern on the panel is stamped, with very sharp edges. Turn the panel over so that the edges are on the radiator side.
After degreasing the panel lightly sand the sandpaper number 180. We decided to paint the panel and frame using a spray gun. Primed and painted parts twice.
- Degrease the panel with clean gasoline (or similar tool), grind fine sandpaper. So we get a slightly rough surface on which the paint is well placed.
- Saw off from the planed pine billet (22 x 44 mm) slats of the required length. The ends can be cut at an angle, but it is better to connect them to the overlap. From one edge the rail can be milled.
- From the rails glue the frame. We check whether the corners are right and fix the frame with clamps for the time of glue drying.
- File eight pine blocks of size 22 x 28 mm. They are needed for hanging the front panel, so cut their ends at an angle of 30 °.Glue the four bars and screw them to the wall next to the radiator.
- The panel is attached to the frame with mounting glue and screws every 10 cm. It is fastened 5 mm from the edges of the frame. We glue and fasten the remaining 4 bars to the frame.
- Paint the screen with a spray gun. First put a layer of primer. Then we paint with a brilliant paint in an aerosol package. Spray should be kept at a distance of 15-20 cm from the surface.
- Screen hang on the bars. All bars cut down at an angle and form a clutch. Raise the screen over the bars, then lower and fix. Simple and fast!
- planed billet size 22 x 28 mm,
- 22 x 44 mm planed blanks,
- screws with dimensions of 3.5 x 15 mm and 3.5 x 35 mm,
- wood glue,
- construction adhesive,
- sandpaper No. 100 and 180,
- decorative panel
- spray primer,
- spray paint.
- miter saw or handsaw with a board for oblique sawing.